Below is a list of plants that, if you buy them commercially, are likely to be grafted.
Grafting is a method used by nurserymen to quickly grow new plants. By the time the plant reaches you, the person selling it to you usually doesn’t know if it is grafted or not, and the graft union is long since healed over and hard to see. So it’s hard to tell by looking whether you have a grafted plant or not.
This list will help you make an educated guess. If you can’t tell by asking the seller or looking, consider assuming that your plant is a graft.
Why is this important? If your plant produces a sucker, you know you need to cut it off, because that sucker is not the same as your original.
Some Plants Likely to Be Grafted
If your plant is a named variety of one of these, it is likely to be a graft, grown atop a rootstock of a different species or variety from the one you bought.
By “named variety” I mean a plant that has a name in single quotes, such as Acer saccharum ‘Sugar Cone’, the sugar cone sugar maple. If your plant is just a species, such as Acer saccharum (sugar maple), it is probably not grafted, even if it is of a genus on this list.
- Apple, especially types for fruit
- Birches, many weeping and some other varieties
- Cedar varities, such as weeping blue atlas cedar
- Cherries, the oriental ornamental flowering types (Prunus serrulata)
- Dogwood, weeping and red forms
- Hazelnut or Filbert, especially nut crop varieties
- Honey locust, the thornless and fruitless types
- Horsechestnut, Buckeye
- Maples: Japanese, red, striped, and sugar varieties, as well as others
- Redbud, especially ‘Oklahoma’
- Spruces, the Koster, ‘Moerheim,’ and ‘Hoosii’ types especially
- Witch hazel
Hartmann, Hudson T. and Dale E. Kester. Plant Propagation Principles and Practices, 7 ed. 2002. My list was compiled by a selective summary of Chapter 20, which lists recommended methods of propagation of woody plants.